Today is an exceptionally beautiful day in Rome. All days are beautiful - but this morning I went on an early run in just shorts and a t-shirt and still was incredibly hot. Later while walking to our field trip we were in short-sleeved shirts because it was that hot. Meanwhile all the Italians are in their winter parkas, hats and tall boots. They really don't know what they've got here. The weather (and the constant SnapChats) is a constant reminder of what I am not missing at Marquette- aka a full blown Wisconsin winter complete with blizzards and negative temperatures. Not so much as one inch of me is even close to wanting to go home.
Over the last week in English we read The Italian Journey, a famous travel narrative by well renowned German genius Johann Wolfgang Von Goethe. We went on a field trip this morning to La Casa di Goethe, the hotel that he stayed in while he was in Rome. It's located on the Via Del Corso- so needless to say Kelly and I window shopped the whole way there and the whole way back. It's her birthday too so we did some real shopping on the way home! The museum itself wasn't all that interesting to me.. With the exception of the copy of the portrait done by his painter roommate Tischbain I felt like his literature and letters painted a much better picture of his time spent in Italy than the tokens of his travels that are housed there. It's a wonderful collection- but I feel like itleast for me I'll always feel more connected to something I can read than something I can see.
I decided to blog about this first and foremost because I feel like the opportunity to experience museums like this is definitely an advantage to being a study abroad student as opposed to a vacationer. I would never have taken the time to visit this museum had my time in Rome been limited- but because I have the blessing of extended time I can take the time to see things that are outside the standard guidebook. So blessed for that. Secondly, I was incredibly moved by The Italian Journey. The novel reinforced my belief that I have chosen the right place to study abroad. The more time I spend in Rome and the more I read about others' travels to Rome, the more I am convinced of this fact. It truly is one of the most important cities in the world, not only for its architecture but also its historical significance. I wanted to share some notable lines from Goethe's work that, despite being written in the 18th century, are relevant to the modern world.
There is one part in his narrative that he is arguing with a friend about a chapel Raphael has painted. His friend argues that the composition of the sibyl is poor- he attributes this to the fact that Raphael had limited space in which to perform. Goethe counters him claiming, "the space which the architecture gave him never worried Raphael in the least. Indeed, it is one of the greatest proofs of his genius that he could fill any given space in the most exquisite manner." He connects this artistic talent to life further asserting, "in art, as in the natural organism, it is precisely within the narrowest limits that life manifests itself most completely." This quotation has been in the corners of my mind ever since I read it- the idea that it is often under the strictest of restrictions that life finds a way to be its fullest self.
Goethe also comments on the constant encounters one has with history while in Rome. He asserts, "the observation that all greatness is transitory should not make us despair; on the contrary, the realization that all past was great should stimulate us to create something of consequence ourselves, which, even when, in its turn, it has fallen to ruins, may continue to inspire our descendants to a noble activity such as our ancestors never lacked." This quotation has given me a perspective by which to travel Rome. Each day that I am traveling I am constantly encountering not only magnificent present structures, but also the entire history of mankind and the structures that laid here before them. It's incredibly unique to see the way in which an entire street curves because once, centuries ago, a successful general built the first permanent stone theater. By walking along it, where the Porticus would have been, one reaches the place in which Caesar was killed- now riddled with cats. It's incredible and completely a testimony to Goethe's comment that while in Rome all that one realizes is that greatness is transitory. The first permanent stone theater and all of its historical significance hardly remains. The legacy of that successful general, Pompey, who celebrated three triumphs is visible only in the unusual jutting out of several homes along a curved street. However, Goethe insists that one should not mourn over this transition of greatness, instead, he insists one should use it as motivation to create his or her own greatness. He truly was a genius.
Another interesting thing about Goethe is that his purpose in traveling was escape and rebirth. He believed that while he was in Italy he would become changed. Throughout his travels, he attempts to become a new version of himself by traveling incognito and trying to recreate himself as a painter. In the end he finds that he is a writer, just as he was before he left. In class we talked a lot about this concept- that often people travel (or study abroad) because they are trying to escape or change. However, sometimes travel is more about solidifying and discovering who you already were rather than becoming something entirely new.
Altogether his writings have already heavily influenced my perspective on study abroad. Which I'm certain was my professor's intention in having us read these narratives early on. Loving every second of this opportunity! Can't truly comprehend that this is actually my life and I'm not just narrating it for someone else.
Other tidbits- found a McDonalds here. Of course. It's incredible. They have gelato McFlurrys that we are still waiting to try. They also serve alcohol there which is a bit unusual and I don't even think necessarily would go with my chicken nuggets all that well. We also wandered to the Spanish Steps a day when we went to pick up our books. And here is the Tiber River from my run in the rain the other day. The water may not be all that blue but you cannot stand next to it and not feel its power and significance as the initial central commerce point for Rome.



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